Field Guides
Lisbon in 5 days — Alfama, Graça and the trams
A sunrise walk from the Graça viewpoint down through Alfama, timed for light on the river.
Sunrise at Graça
The Miradouro da Senhora do Monte faces west over the city, so at sunrise the light comes from behind you and lands on the castle and the Baixa rooftops. Be there twenty minutes before sunrise. The Standard Picture Control with white balance shifted one step toward amber suits the terracotta roofs.
Down through Alfama
Walk down through the lanes toward the Portas do Sol viewpoint. The alleys stay in shade until mid-morning, which is good for street portraits and laundry lines. Look for the trams coming around the tight bends below the cathedral.
The tram shot
The bend at the Sé cathedral is the classic spot. Stand on the uphill side, 1/30 s for a little blur on the tram, and wait for a yellow car with nobody hanging off the back. It took four trams to get a clean one.
Breakfast
A pastel de nata and a bica at any pastelaria with a counter. Stand, do not sit: it is half the price and twice as quick.